Nicolaï / Parfums de Nicolaï
Nicolaï / Parfums de Nicolaï
77 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Yuzu's bright, almost astringent citrus crashes against saffron's dusty warmth whilst black pepper and spearmint create a spicy-green sharpness that feels almost peppery on the olfactory palate. The impression is invigorating but distinctly cool—more autumn morning than comfort.
The leather emerges with genuine presence, textured and somewhat creamy thanks to the orris butter's powdery influence, whilst violet adds a slightly peppery, slightly dusty floral undertone. Rose and leather intertwine in a sophisticated dance, neither note overpowering, creating an elegant, almost iris-like character that feels both refined and subtly animalic.
Gaiac wood's smoky, resinous warmth anchors the composition whilst tonka bean absolute whispers a gentle caramel sweetness into the white musk and sandalwood base. The fragrance becomes increasingly intimate and skin-like, a creamy, slightly woody whisper that prioritises subtlety over projection—a sophisticated fade rather than a dramatic disappearance.
Baïkal Leather Intense is a fragrance that refuses sentimentality, drawing its character from the friction between spice and hide. Patricia de Nicolaï has constructed something deliberately austere—a leather composition that doesn't court approval but rather demands respect through sheer olfactory conviction.
The opening announces itself with yuzu's sharp citrus bite and saffron's papery warmth, but these aren't here to soften what follows. Black pepper and spearmint create an almost savoury opening, a peppery-green prelude that feels vaguely medicinal, like inhaling the air above a spice merchant's counter mixed with crushed mint leaves. This is not a gentle introduction.
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3.6/5 (80)