Mugler
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The rhubarb bursts immediately with tart, almost vegetal sharpness, cutting through the initial fruity sweetness with a green, astringent attack. Within moments, the spice accord emerges aggressively, bringing black pepper and warm woody notes that feel almost harsh against the bright tartness—there's no honeyed welcome here.
The sequoia heart settles into focus, revealing a dry, slightly resinous woodiness that sits awkwardly with the persistent spice. The fruitiness recedes, becoming more subtle, whilst the amber begins its slow ascent, adding warmth without sweetness. This middle phase feels deliberately uncomfortable, refusing the usual progression toward comfort.
The vetiver and amber dominate, creating a sparse, almost austere base that retains surprising dryness despite the amber's presence. What remains is woody, faintly spiced, and considerably more wearable than the opening promised—though still more architectural than comforting, lingering as a whisper of resin and earth rather than a persistent embrace.
Mugler's B*Men arrives as a peculiar collision between orchard and forest floor—a scent that refuses easy categorisation. The rhubarb top note is the real revelation here; rather than the expected sweetness, it delivers a tart, almost green herbaceousness that feels closer to a freshly snapped stalk than candy. This gives the fragrance an unusual vegetal spine, preventing it from succumbing to the gourmand tendencies lurking beneath.
What makes B*Men compelling is how Christine Nagel has weaponised the spice accord (100% dominance in the composition) to create something almost confrontational. The sequoia heart note is unconventional—that woody, slightly pencil-shaving quality sits uneasily with the warm spice, creating a tension rather than harmony. There's no creamy musk to soften the edges; instead, the amber base arrives with dry, resinous warmth, whilst vetiver adds a slightly austere, earthy pull.
Add fragrances to your collection and unlock your personalised scent DNA, note map, and shareable identity card.
3.7/5 (1.2k)