Molinard
Molinard
183 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bright lemon zest cuts through honeyed labdanum whilst nutmeg adds a warming spice that makes your nostrils flare slightly. The opening thirty seconds feel almost chypré in its citrus sharpness, a deceptive promise that this will be a fresh composition.
Within minutes, the florals settle into a distinctly powdery, almost retro-smelling accord—that unmistakable almond-tinged heliotrope emerges as the dominant voice, supported by mimosa's subtly creamy texture. Rose and jasmine provide florid depth without stealing the spotlight, whilst the nutmeg-spice continues murmuring underneath, preventing the powdery heart from feeling dated.
By the fourth hour, labdanum and benzoin create a golden, resinous finish that feels like wearing cashmere against skin. The patchouli becomes more assertive, adding an earthy, slightly smoky quality, whilst vetiver lends herbaceous dryness. The musk emerges as the final statement—a gentle, creamy skin scent that whispers rather than projects.
Habanita L'esprit arrives as a deliberate paradox: a fragrance that feels simultaneously powdered and peppery, sweet yet austere. The French labdanum opens with a honeyed warmth that's immediately disrupted by nutmeg's prickling bite and lemon's sharp counterpoint—this isn't a perfume content to ease you in gently. Instead, it establishes tension from the first spray, a conversation between sticky oriental sweetness and spice-driven restlessness.
The heart reveals Molinard's true intention: a heliotrope-led composition where almond-tinged florals (the heliotrope and mimosa particularly) create a powdery bed that feels almost cosmetic in its refinement. Rose and jasmine arrive as supporting players rather than protagonists, lending structure without demanding attention. This powdery-floral accord sits atop the spicy foundation like face powder applied over skin still warm from sun, slightly cloying yet undeniably elegant.
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4.2/5 (85)