La Fumée

Yemenite frankincense blooms with an almost medicinal intensity, its resinous smoke immediately assertive, whilst French lavender arrives almost reluctantly—rendered rather green and astringent rather than soothing. Persian elemi amplifies the incense accord, creating a dry, almost dusty opening that feels more reminiscent of an ancient library than a modern fragrance launch.

The spice accord materialises with genuine presence—cumin's mineral earthiness collides with cardamom's slightly cooling warmth, whilst coriander seed adds an herbaceous crispness that prevents the composition from turning creamy. Moroccan chamomile weaves through the spice with a quiet floral restraint, and Egyptian geranium contributes a subtle peppery-green complexity that suggests foliage rather than a flower arrangement.

The woody-amber base settles into something austere and architectural. Mysore sandalwood provides a creamy anchor, but birch tar and Atlas cedar assert their presence with deliberate bitterness, whilst juniper introduces a gin-like herbaceous quality that keeps everything from becoming warm or consoling. The oud adds shadowy depth, creating a composition that feels less like a fragrance ending and more like a slow fade into background contemplation.