Maison Margiela
Maison Margiela
171 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Freesia cuts through with green immediacy—almost herbal—while the leafy top notes create an impression of crisp stems and morning dew. The opening is deliberately cool, deliberately restrained, establishing Flower Market's refusal to shout.
The white florals bloom into their full powdery presence, with jasmine sambac providing creamy softness whilst jasmine grandiflorum keeps everything tethered to green freshness. The peach base begins surfacing beneath, sweetening the composition gently without ever tipping into fruity perfection.
Cedarwood and oakmoss emerge to anchor the florals' fade, adding a faint woody dryness that prevents the composition from becoming purely skin-scent. What remains is primarily a whisper—soft, slightly sweet, predominantly green-tinged florals clinging close to the body rather than projecting.
Flower Market arrives as a deliberately restrained olfactory tour through an early-morning Grasse garden—no grand gestures, just the honest green-floral breath of blooms before the heat of day. Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud has constructed something deliberately modest here, which is precisely its charm. The freesia and green leaves establish an almost Calone-adjacent freshness that refuses to sweeten, anchoring what could otherwise become another generic white-floral into something genuinely verdant.
The heart is where the artistry reveals itself: Cavallier-Belletrud layers four different jasmine absolutes and a Grasse rose absolute, yet restrains their natural indolic warmth with surgical precision. Rather than building into the heady, creamy narcissism of true tuberose, these white florals remain cool-skinned, their powdery jasmine sambac meeting the green snap of jasmine grandiflorum without melting into sweetness. The tuberose absolute reads almost as a textural element—creamy without cloying—rather than a note demanding attention.
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3.5/5 (77)