M. Micallef
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The plum strikes first—jammy but not syrupy—immediately brightened by snappy bitter orange pith and lemon zest that cuts through with vigour. Within moments, you're reminded this is a serious floral, as the tuberose begins its quiet emergence from beneath the citrus, already hinting at the powdery depths to follow.
The florals dominate completely now, with ylang ylang adding a creamy, almost coconut-tinged sweetness that plays beautifully against the cooler, greener aspects of jasmine and the indolic richness of tuberose. Neroli provides a brief flash of brightness—almost cosmetic-like—before the fragrance begins its steady descent into amber and powder, the benzoin creating a soft, biscuity undertone that grounds the floral exuberance.
What remains is primarily an elegant powder and musk accord with vanilla providing gentle sweetness rather than intensity. The flowers fade to whispers, leaving behind a soft, skin-like second skin that feels more like a fragrant memory than a forceful presence, intimate and close-worn by the fourth hour onward.
M. Micallef's Ananda Black is a fragrance caught between restraint and indulgence—a floral composition that whispers rather than shouts, yet packs genuine sensuality into its quiet presentation. The plum and bitter orange combination in the opening provides a tart counterpoint to what will become an intoxicating floral heart, preventing the fragrance from tipping into the overly sweet territory that lesser compositions might inhabit. What makes this scent compelling is the interplay between its competing personalities: the bright, almost tart citric edges of the top notes grind against a lush trio of ylang ylang, jasmine, and tuberose—three florals that could easily overwhelm, yet here they're orchestrated with surprising discipline.
This is a fragrance for those who appreciate floral complexity without theatre. The tuberose, particularly, brings a creamy, almost buttery texture that softens the sharper jasmine sambac qualities, whilst neroli introduces a slightly soapy, clean counterweight. As the composition settles, benzoin and white musk emerge beneath, providing a powdery, talcum-like embrace that prevents the fragrance from becoming cloying. The vanilla presence is judicious—not the caramel-heavy sweetness of a gourmand, but something more restrained and sophisticated.
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3.9/5 (237)