Lubin
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bergamot and lemon assault with bright vitality, immediately tempered by black pepper that adds a herbal snap. Gardenia and ylang-ylang struggle against this citrus-spice framework, creating an almost tart opening that feels more aldehyde-tinged than floral.
The composition softens considerably as clove and may rose emerge, introducing a peppery, slightly powdery florality with iris providing a mineral edge. Tonka bean creeps in subtly, adding warmth without sweetness, whilst jasmine adds a whisper of indole. This phase feels the most balanced—spicy, slightly creamy, undeniably floral but never saccharine.
Brazilian rosewood and sandalwood attempt to establish a woody foundation, but the performance begins its rapid decline here. Musk and heliotrope fade almost imperceptibly, leaving only vanilla and a ghost of patchouli clinging to skin—barely perceptible after five or six hours, forcing reapplication for any lasting presence.
L de Lubin Lubin arrives as a fragrance caught in thoughtful tension—a floral composition that refuses the predictable sweetness its gardenia and ylang-ylang top notes might suggest. Lucien Ferrero has crafted something distinctly architectural, where black pepper and lemon slice through the heavier florals with almost aggressive clarity, establishing a citrus-spiced framework that prevents this from becoming merely another rose-jasmine confection.
The heart is where the composition reveals its intelligence. May rose and jasmine intertwine with clove and iris, creating a slightly peppery, almost savoury floral tableau rather than a romantic one. The tonka bean doesn't turn this syrupy; instead, it adds a subtle almond-tinged creaminess that acts as a soft counterweight to the spice. This is floral composition as a puzzle—elegant geometries rather than lush gardens.
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3.9/5 (78)