Lubin
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Cognac fumes rise immediately, vaporous and amber-toned, whilst saffron adds its metallic, almost iodine-like rasp. Juniper berries prickle through with their piney sharpness, creating an opening that smells more like a master distiller's workshop than a perfume counter—all volatile oils and botanical experimentation.
The whisky accord emerges properly now, honeyed oak and grain spirit mingling with ambrette's peculiar musk that sits somewhere between human skin and crushed hibiscus seeds. Lavender weaves through in gauzy layers, aromatic without being soapy, whilst the first hints of leather begin to creep in—supple, slightly animalic, absorbing the boozy notes like a well-worn hide.
The leather fully materialises, enriched by cedar's pencil-shaving dryness and vetiver's earthy, slightly smoky greenness. Oud provides a resinous darkness at the edges whilst musk smooths everything into something that smells like expensive deterioration—worn luxury rather than pristine newness.
Korrigan reads like a Celtic myth told through spirits and smoke—Thomas Fontaine's 2012 creation for Lubin captures something genuinely untamed despite its gourmand classification. The cognac-saffron marriage in the opening is less about sweetness and more about volatile warmth, that heady moment when alcohol vapours meet resinous spice. There's an almost medicinal quality to how the juniper berries cut through, gin-like and botanical, preventing this from sliding into cloying territory. The whisky note in the heart isn't the peaty Islay sort but something mellower, perhaps Speyside-adjacent, whilst the ambrette seeds add their peculiar musky-floral texture that smells simultaneously of skin and petals. Lavender threads through with a fougère-esque aromatic quality, though here it feels less barbershop and more like lavender sprigs drying in a distillery. The leather base isn't the birch tar sort or the suede sort—it's something worn and booze-soaked, a jacket that's spent too many evenings in wood-panelled drinking establishments. Cedar and vetiver provide the skeletal structure whilst oud lurks rather than dominates, offering shadow rather than starring role. This is for those who find most leather fragrances too clean, too predictable. It's for late nights when respectability has left the room but refinement remains. The wearer understands that sophistication and slight dissolution aren't mutually exclusive.
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3.8/5 (130)