Lubin
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Juniper berry dominates immediately, its piney-citrus bite sharpened by grapefruit's acidic edge and mandarin's pulpy sweetness. Neroli adds a fleeting petally refinement, but it's quickly overshadowed by the green, resinous aromatic quality that suggests this fragrance has already made up its mind about where it's heading.
Clary sage emerges with its distinctive musty-herbal character, amplified by the dry heat of nutmeg and clove that registers almost as incense smoke rather than culinary spice. The tonka bean provides textural softness without overt sweetness, creating a velvety backdrop that prevents the spices from becoming too angular or austere.
Cedar and red pine intertwine into a single woody-resinous accord, their sap-sticky quality enhanced by frankincense's lemony-smoky facets and myrrh's bitter balsamic depth. The amber provides subtle warmth rather than sweetness, leaving a skin scent that's meditative, slightly austere, and smells genuinely of bark and resin rather than synthetic woods.
Itasca Le Vetiver presents a curious contradiction: despite its name, vetiver plays a supporting role in this woody-spicy composition that leans heavily into resinous, coniferous territory. The opening bursts with juniper berry's gin-sharp facets, tempered by the sweet-tart brightness of grapefruit and mandarin—citrus that feels more functional than decorative, cutting through what quickly becomes a dense, aromatic forest. The heart is where Ferrero's vision truly manifests: clary sage brings its tobacco-tinged herbal bitterness, while nutmeg and clove create a dry, almost dusty warmth that recalls incense more than pastry. That tonka bean sits oddly amongst the spice, softening edges without sweetening outright.
What strikes most is the progression into the base, where red pine and cedar construct a proper American woodland—think resinous bark and dry needles underfoot rather than polished cedarwood. The frankincense and myrrh lend an ecclesiastical gravity, their smoke curling through the trees like morning mist through a Minnesota forest (Itasca being the source of the Mississippi). This is for those who find most vetivers too grassy or too prim, who want something that smells less like grooming and more like communion with old growth timber. It wears masculine without posturing, appealing to anyone who appreciates fragrances that prioritise atmosphere over accessibility. Best in autumn through winter, layered under wool, where its earthy spice can radiate with body heat.
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3.9/5 (84)