Les Parfums de Rosine
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bright bergamot cuts through immediately, paired with coriander's warm spice—more breakfast tisane than traditional fragrance opening. The effect is unexpectedly green and zesty, almost herbal, before the rose absolutes gradually emerge from beneath, their deeper, more complex character still subordinate to the citrus-spice interplay.
The rose trinity reveals itself fully here, the powdery iris acting as arbiter between the creamy ylang ylang and the indolic jasmine. A distinctly chypre character solidifies as oakmoss and patchouli rise, creating an almost earthy earthiness that prevents any floral excess. The composition feels restrained, controlled—a careful equilibrium rather than an exuberant bloom.
Benzoin and sandalwood dominate, their creamy sweetness providing unexpected warmth as the more volatile florals fade. The fragrance collapses inward, becoming increasingly intimate and skin-close, the vetiver lending a final whisper of green, mineral dryness. By hour four, it's barely perceptible—a ghost of rose-scented memory rather than a persistent presence.
Une Folie de Rose announces itself as a rose-centric fragrance with genuine complexity, though its whisper-soft projection betrays an eau de toilette sensibility masquerading under a unisex label. François Robert constructs something altogether more sophisticated than a straightforward floral: the opening's bergamot and coriander create an almost spiced-tea quality that immediately contextualises the three rose absolutes not as romantic gestures but as architectural elements within a chypre framework.
What emerges is the peculiar alchemy of multiple rose expressions—Bulgarian rose absolute provides the velvety, almost wine-dark richness, whilst Turkish rose absolute contributes sharper, more medicinal facets. Tea rose threads through as an elegant mediator, preventing the composition from cloying. The iris adds a powdery constraint, a cool violet-tinged presence that argues against sentimentality. Ylang ylang and jasmine weave throughout, adding creamy, slightly indolic texture without dominating; they're supporting players in a rose ensemble piece.
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3.8/5 (278)