Le Labo
Le Labo
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A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The cumin hits immediately—animalic, warm, bordering on indecent—whilst olibanum trails smoke like incense in a stone chapel. Rose peeks through cautiously, flanked by cedar's dry rasp and an indistinct constellation of spices that prickle at the edges.
The rose finally claims centre stage but remains utterly transformed: woody, earthen, shot through with vetiver's green bitterness and cedar's persistent pencil-shaving character. The cumin recedes to a skin-like warmth, no longer shocking but integral, whilst the first whispers of leather and guaiac's medicinal smokiness begin their slow creep forward.
What remains is a close-to-skin composition of sun-warmed wood, amber's gentle resinousness, and that rose—now barely recognisable as floral—melded completely with leather and subtle oud. The cumin persists as a ghostly warmth, a reminder of the fragrance's provocative opening, now fully integrated into a woody, slightly smoky embrace that feels like second skin.
Rose 31 is Le Labo's masterclass in subverting expectations—a rose held down by cumin's sweaty, almost feral intensity and cedar's pencil-shaving dryness. From the first spray, this is rose reimagined as something far removed from the Valentine's bouquet: the olibanum lends a smoky, resinous cathedral quality whilst that notorious cumin creates an effect that's simultaneously skin-like and confrontational. The rose itself, caught between these polarities, emerges bruised and beautiful, its petals dusted with spices and woodsmoke rather than dew.
What makes this fragrance compelling is the tension it maintains throughout its wear. The guaiac wood adds a medicinal, slightly tarry quality that merges seamlessly with leather undertones—not the clean suede often found in modern perfumery, but something more lived-in and ambiguous. Vetiver and cedar form the structural backbone, creating an austere woodiness that prevents the composition from becoming too plush or sweet. The oud and amber appear as textural elements rather than spotlight players, adding depth without dominating.
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4.1/5 (6.8k)