L'Artisan Parfumeur
L'Artisan Parfumeur
134 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Petitgrain and bergamot explode with zesty, almost aldehydic vibrancy, immediately joined by a tart blackcurrant bud that feels nearly green, herbaceous. The blackberry appears alongside these citruses like a dark cloud rolling across a bright sky, setting the stage for what's to come.
The composition settles into its most elegant phase as orange blossom rises to meet the blackberry and red berries, introducing a powdery, slightly luminous quality that softens the sharpness without surrendering it. Patchouli begins its slow ascent from below, adding earthy weight and a whisper of spice that prevents the fruit from ever turning saccharine.
Musky notes and oakmoss form a velvety, skin-scent base that's more whisper than declaration, the patchouli now fully expressed with a dried-leather, slightly mineral quality. The berries have faded to memory—just a faint, wistful echo of fruit against a backdrop of warm, animalic musk.
Mûre et Musc Extrême announces itself as a blackberry patch caught in morning light—tart, green, and thrumming with life. Karine Dubreuil-Sereni has constructed something defiantly unsweetened here, which is remarkable for a fragrance built on the foundation of dark berries and musky base notes. The petitgrain and bergamot sing with crystalline brightness, refusing to let the composition sink into jammy territory, whilst the blackcurrant bud contributes a slightly vegetal, almost resinous edge that keeps everything grounded.
What emerges is a scent for those who find conventional fruity fragrances cloying. There's an intellectual quality to this composition—the red berries and blackberry don't read as candy, but rather as fruit observed in its natural state, slightly tart against the tongue. The orange blossom in the heart provides a whisper of powdery indolence without ever allowing the fragrance to become soft or diffuse; instead, it acts as a restraining hand, keeping the berries honest.
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3.5/5 (254)