L'Artisan Parfumeur
L'Artisan Parfumeur
136 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Pink pepper and saffron detonate across your skin with an almost peppery snap, cutting through citrus with the precision of a surgical blade. The initial assault is distinctly green-spicy, more herbalist than florist, with saffron's peculiar mustiness asserting itself before anything else.
By the second hour, linden blossom emerges as the compositional centre, its honey-tinged character anchoring the increasingly opulent tuberose and jasmine that now bloom around it. The saffron softens but never entirely retreats, creating an unusual spiced-floral dialogue where orange blossom provides a last bridge between the herbal opening and the creeping sweetness below.
Vetiver and beeswax dominate the final act, rendering the fragrance nearly abstract—all wax, earth, and subtle honey, with vanilla providing a warm amber haze rather than confectionery sweetness. The florals ghost into memory, leaving behind something more akin to a cabinet of dried flowers than a living bouquet.
La Chasse aux Papillons Extrême operates as a paradox: a floral arrangement so lush it borders on indulgent, yet constructed with the skeletal precision of a vintage botanical study. Anne Flipo has orchestrated a fragrance where delicate florals are persistently needled by pink pepper and saffron—spicy irritants that prevent the composition from settling into mere prettiness.
The opening salvo of citrus and saffron establishes a peculiar astringency, almost medicinal in its insistence. This acidic foundation becomes the anchor upon which the heart's hedonism unfolds: tuberose and jasmine bloom with an almost tactile density, whilst linden blossom adds a honeyed, slightly tart whisper that stops short of cloying. Orange blossom threads through as a softening agent, its indolic beauty tempered by the ongoing presence of that initial spice.
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3.9/5 (182)