L'Artisan Parfumeur
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Mandarin orange leaf's resinous green character collides with clary sage's peppery herbal edge, whilst fig contributes a subtle woody dryness. The rosebud remains in the background, offering structure rather than rose-garden romance—this opening feels botanical and slightly austere, nothing like a traditional citrus fresh start.
The composition pivots as jasmine jam's cooked, almost fermented sweetness emerges alongside mastic's pistachio-tinged resinousness. Violet powder settles in, creating a soft counterpoint to the increasingly woody-green direction. The fragrance becomes more contemplative here, the fresh accords taking on a dustier, more herbal character.
Ambrox and oak wood form an ashy, almost smoky base whilst pine needle injects crisp austerity—there's something faintly medicinal and withdrawn. The florals fade almost entirely, leaving behind a dry, mineral-tinged woody composition that feels more botanical than perfumed, lingering as a subtle green-woody whisper rather than a projected statement.
Caligna announces itself as a fragrance of calculated contradiction—simultaneously green and dark, fresh yet earthy. Dora Baghriche-Arnaud has constructed something that feels less like a linear composition and more like a snapshot of an autumn garden at dusk, when the light turns amber and the air carries both sweetness and decay.
The opening bristles with green intensity: fig leaf's almost soapy astringency mingles with clary sage's herbal bite, whilst mandarin orange leaf adds a slightly resinous citrus quality rather than the expected brightness. This is not cheerful. There's a shadowy undertone present from the start. As the composition settles, jasmine jam emerges—note the specificity here, not floral jasmine but a cooked, jammy rendition, almost fermented—whilst mastic (that pistachio-tinged resin) acts as a peculiar green-woody pivot point. A powdery violet shadow drifts through, adding complexity rather than sweetness.
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3.6/5 (77)