Lancôme
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Saffron strikes first, peppery and slightly medicinal, immediately joined by bergamot's sharp citric brightness and mandarin's softer sweetness. The leather emerges almost shyly, a whisper beneath the spice rather than a shout, whilst the citrus notes create a luminous, almost ethereal quality that suggests this will be anything but a conventional leather fragrance.
The florals fully reveal themselves—jasmine's creamy indolence and ylang ylang's honeyed richness intensify, softened and anchored by patchouli's earthy gravitas. Hawthorn threads through with understated elegance, contributing a faintly green, fruit-like dryness that prevents the composition from becoming overly sweet, whilst the leather becomes more textural, adopting a suede-like suppleness rather than aggressive animalic character.
Styrax emerges with creamy, almost powdery warmth, supported by iris's refined coolness and birch's precise, slightly birch-tar dryness. The floral sweetness recedes, leaving a sophisticated, ambiguous skin scent—leather and wood now dominant but greyed by the lingering softness of iris powder and the ghostly sweetness of styrax, creating an impression of expensive gloves placed on linen.
Cuir de (the title itself deliberately truncated, suggestive of incompleteness) is Calice Becker's meditation on contradiction—a fragrance that refuses the comfort of categorisation. Launched in 2007, it presents leather not as the dominant tyrant one might expect from its name, but as a atmospheric foil against which a surprisingly voluptuous floral arrangement unfolds.
The opening salvo of saffron and bergamot establishes a spiced, almost medicinal brightness that immediately complicates any leather narrative. This is not the animalic, creaking leather of a vintage saddle; rather, it's a supple, almost translucent skin through which light passes. The mandarin adds a conversational warmth, preventing the composition from becoming austere.
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3.6/5 (76)