Laboratorio Olfattivo
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Clove's sharp spiciness cuts through immediately, backed by cinnamon's warmth and bergamot's zesty citrus. The accord feels almost savoury, like stepping into a spice market dusted with citrus peel—bright, peppery, undeniably alive.
The spice settles into a more nuanced narrative as patchouli emerges with earthy potency, softened considerably by frangipani's creamy, almost feminine florality and orris's sophisticated, slightly talcum-like powder. The composition becomes greener, more contemplative, with a subtle sweetness that never tips into candy.
Cistus labdanum brings resinous warmth whilst cedarwood's dry, pencil-like quality maintains structure. A gossamer musk base creates intimacy on skin, the spice fading to memory as the earthy-woody foundation settles into a quiet, skin-scent territory that lingers softly rather than projects.
Patchouliful announces itself with deliberate spice—clove and cinnamon spark against bergamot's citric brightness, creating an almost medicinal opening that feels herbaceous rather than sweet. This is not patchouli as a creamy, animalic base note; Cécile Zarokian positions it front and centre in the heart, where it meets frangipani's creamy white florality and orris absolute's powdery, iris-like coolness. The result is a compelling tension: earthy patchouli leaf rendered almost feminine by the frangipani's coconut-tinged softness, whilst orris adds a restrained elegance that prevents the composition from veering into gourmand territory.
The fragrance carries a distinctly autumnal character—there's something of damp earth and fallen leaves about it, enhanced by cistus labdanum's resinous warmth in the base. Cedarwood arrives as a stabilising force, its pencil-shaving dryness anchoring what could otherwise feel overly herbal. A subtle musk provides skin-like intimacy rather than projection.
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Lorenzo Villoresi
3.8/5 (121)