Laboratorio Olfattivo
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Nevenolide's waxy, almost creamy aldehyde surges forward with disarming warmth, immediately undercut by a piercing lemon-petitgrain brightness that feels almost confrontational. The synthetic accords announce themselves without apology, creating an austere, slightly soapy freshness.
The vetiver settles in with grainy, dusty authority whilst musk lends a powdery softness that contradicts the composition's initial severity. Coriander seeds emerge with subtle spice, adding dimension without sweetness, and the powdery accords deepen into something oddly comforting despite the green, vaguely clinical character.
The base collapses into a whispered musk-and-coriander dryness, increasingly powdery and skin-like, with only faint echoes of the vetiver's earthiness remaining. What persists is more impression than presence—a vague herbaceous memory clinging to fabric rather than flesh.
Esvedra arrives as a fractured, deliberately austere composition that refuses easy categorisation. Pierre Guillaume has crafted something closer to a curmudgeonly herbalist's study than a conventional fragrance—all green severity and powdery restraint. The nevenolide opens the door with a waxy, aldehydic warmth that immediately clashes with the lemon petitgrain's angular brightness, creating a tension rather than harmony. What follows is a curious negotiation between the musky, animalic base and the vetiver's grainy dryness, with coriander seeds adding a subtle spiced bite that prevents the composition from becoming merely herbaceous.
This is a fragrance for those who've grown tired of fragrance itself—who view perfume less as ornamentation and more as a personal atmosphere to inhabit. The synthetic accords aren't masked; they're deliberately foregrounded, giving Esvedra an almost industrial coolness despite its natural-seeming ingredients. It's powdery without being soft, fresh without being clean. There's something deliberately uncomfortable about it, a soapy-green austerity that suggests someone who wears what they like rather than what suits them. You'd wear this on mornings when you want to retreat inward, perhaps whilst working alone in quiet rooms, or on days when you're content to exist in your own olfactory bubble, indifferent to whether others find you appealing.
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4.0/5 (860)