Laboratorio Olfattivo
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The initial spray snaps with bergamot and that distinctive Thai basil—green, slightly spicy, unexpectedly herbaceous—whilst aromatic notes create a soft fuzz around the sharper citrals, almost like smelling a garden through gauze.
The blond tobacco emerges with genuine character, interacting with clary sage to create something faintly soapy-floral yet completely un-perfume-like; the Indian hemp deepens the composition's earthiness whilst amber gently sweetens the woody scaffold beneath.
Sandalwood, cedarwood, and frankincense dominate, creating a creamy, faintly powdery nest where tonka bean whispers just enough sweetness to prevent the finale from turning stern or austere—a gentle, lingering herb-and-wood embrace.
Cozumel arrives as a peculiar proposition: a fragrance that seems caught between a botanical apothecary and a smouldering cedar grove. Marie Duchêne's 2009 creation reads like someone has pressed aromatic herbs directly into damp wood, then lit frankincense smoke beneath it all. The Thai basil cuts through with an almost medicinal brightness—slightly peppery, slightly licorice-tinged—whilst the bergamot refuses to dominate, instead threading through like a supporting player rather than a lead. What's genuinely intriguing is the blond tobacco in the heart, which doesn't smell like cigarette smoke but rather like opening an antique cigar box lined with paper and herbs; it's dusty, slightly sweet, and wholly unexpected.
This is a fragrance for the cerebral wearer—someone who gravitates towards Comme des Garçons or Heeley Sel Marin rather than conventional florals. There's a distinctly bohemian character here, something between a vintage textile shop and a monastery herb garden. The sandalwood and cedarwood base give it an architectural quality, though the tonka bean's warmth prevents it from becoming austere. It's powdery without being dusty, woody without feeling heavy, and the clary sage adds an herbal-floral dimension that prevents any single note from overstaying its welcome.
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3.5/5 (134)