Kilian
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Blood orange and blackcurrant explode with tart insistence, immediately joined by white peach's creamy sweetness and a whisper of lychee's floral musk. The fruits are vivid and almost edible, demanding notice within the first spray.
Pimento emerges with peppery warmth, transforming the fruity brightness into something altogether spicier and more complex. Rose and jasmine materialise delicately, their florality reined in by the persistent spice, creating an intriguing friction between sweetness and bite.
The base settles into a powdery, gourmand softness as tonka and benzoin dominate, whilst sandalwood and cedar provide woody grounding. What remains is less fruity, more like a sweet, peppery whisper with a subtle vanilla-tinged dryness.
Playing with the Devil announces itself as a sophisticated fruit-forward seduction wrapped in spice and florals. Calice Becker has constructed something genuinely playful here—the blood orange and blackcurrant create a tart, almost jammy opening that refuses to whisper. What makes this fragrance compelling is how the stone fruits (white peach and lychee) add a creamy, almost fleshy sweetness that sits against the bright citrus rather than capitulating to it. The pimento in the heart is the real protagonist, a peppery, slightly smoky note that transforms what could have been a conventional fruity floral into something with genuine attitude and dimension.
This is a scent for someone who doesn't subscribe to linear narratives. The rose and jasmine emerge with a certain dignity—they're present without dominating, providing a floral anchor that prevents the composition from becoming saccharine. The pimento-pepper combination creates a subtle bite, a hint of mischief in the title's promise. There's an almost cosmetic quality to the drydown, with tonka and benzoin lending a powdery sweetness that recalls vintage glamour, whilst the sandalwood and cedar prevent it from veering into fragrance-counter territory.
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4.0/5 (170)