Jovoy
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The mimosa announces itself with its characteristic honeyed-almond sweetness, immediately tempered by brown sugar that smells slightly scorched, as if someone's making praline and got distracted. Vanilla emerges not as a solo note but as part of this caramelising process, already intertwined with the floral element in a way that's more patisserie than perfume counter.
The sweetness intensifies but never quite tips over—the vetiver begins its work here, introducing an earthy, almost woody undertone that creates fascinating tension with the gourmand notes. The powdery quality of mimosa becomes more pronounced, mingling with musk to create something that smells like sweetened skin, intimate and slightly animalic beneath all that sugar.
Amber and musk take the lead, creating a warm, golden base that still carries echoes of caramelised vanilla. The vetiver remains as a ghostly presence, just enough to keep things from turning entirely plush, whilst the brown sugar memory lingers like the scent of baking that's seeped into fabric and won't quite wash out.
Fire at Will is a study in controlled chaos—Vanina Muracciole sets a match to vanilla and watches it caramelise into something far more interesting than the usual sweet shop fare. The mimosa here isn't the delicate, honeyed sort you'd find in grasse fields; it's dusted with brown sugar that's been taken just past the point of melting, creating a burnt-edged sweetness that hovers between confection and smoke. This is vanilla with a backbone, grounded by vetiver's earthy, almost smoky character that prevents the composition from collapsing into sugary obsequiousness.
The amber and musk combination creates a pillowy, skin-like warmth that makes the gourmand elements feel almost carnal rather than juvenile. There's a peculiar interplay between the mimosa's natural powder and the caramelised sugar—it reads like face powder left too close to a hot stove, oddly compelling in its juxtaposition of the cosmetic and the kitchen. The creaminess isn't dairy-like but rather the texture of crème brûlée just before the spoon cracks through the burnt sugar shell.
Add fragrances to your collection and unlock your personalised scent DNA, note map, and shareable identity card.
3.8/5 (187)