Joop!
Joop!
171 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bergamot and lemon arrive first, crisp and citric, before tarragon's anise-like peculiarity threads through. This bright entrance lasts mere minutes before the sweetness begins its inevitable ascent, the fruits becoming honeyed rather than fresh, signalling what's to come.
Heliotrope and honey assert themselves with warm, creamy indulgence, whilst jasmine and ylang ylang layer in a floral richness that feels almost perfumed—like inhaling a Victorian cosmetics counter. The powdery orris root creates a soft, cosmetic quality, and the vanilla begins seeping upwards, rounding everything into a cohesive, golden sweetness that dominates for hours.
Vanilla, tonka bean, and amber settle into a skin scent of pure warmth, with vetiver and patchouli emerging as subtle earthy anchors that prevent complete candy-like collapse. The musk becomes increasingly prominent, animalic and intimate, whilst myrrh adds a resinous depth—what remains is less perfume and more a warm, ambery embrace.
Nuit d'été Joop! is a fragrance that refuses subtlety, and therein lies its peculiar charm. The composition pitches itself deliberately towards the amber-sweet axis, with heliotrope and honey creating a creamy, almost edible centre that feels distinctly of the 1990s—that era when fragrances wore their indulgence without apology. The tarragon and bergamot in the opening provide momentary freshness, a citric wink before the composition surrenders entirely to its gourmand impulses.
What makes this scent arresting is how the floral heart—jasmine, ylang ylang, lily of the valley—doesn't fight the sweetness but amplifies it, creating something closer to almond frangipani than a traditional floral bouquet. The orris root adds dusty powder, a cosmetic quality that softens what could have been cloying. Beneath it all, the base reveals itself as a tussle between creamy tonka bean and vetiver's green earthiness, with patchouli adding a subtle leather-tobacco undertone that prevents the whole affair from becoming purely dessert.
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Karl Lagerfeld
3.4/5 (305)