Jil Sander
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The bergamot flashes bright and citric for perhaps thirty seconds before passion fruit's tropical intensity takes over, its seedy, purple-pink sweetness tempered by reseda's odd, almost metallic honey-green quality. It's loud, fruity, and unmistakably synthetic in that mid-2000s way—this isn't botanical accuracy; it's the idea of fruit distilled into its most attention-grabbing form.
Frangipani unfurls with its characteristic coconut-adjacent creaminess, immediately draped in vanilla and dark chocolate that create an accord somewhere between Monoi oil and a melting Bounty bar. The floral element becomes powdery and soft, whilst the chocolate maintains a welcome bitterness that prevents the composition from becoming cloying, even as the sweetness reaches near-overwhelming levels.
What remains is a musky, gently woody skin scent with persistent vanilla sweetness and the ghost of chocolate—more cocoa powder than ganache now. The cedar adds a pencil-shaving dryness that finally brings some restraint, though the fragrance never fully sheds its gourmand character, clinging to the skin like the memory of something delicious you probably shouldn't have had seconds of.
Sun Delight is Nathalie Lorson's unapologetically hedonistic take on tropical excess, a fragrance that smells like melted chocolate-covered fruit abandoned on a sun-lounger. The opening bergamot barely has time to announce itself before the passion fruit barges through—fleshy, acidic, and dripping with juice—whilst reseda's peculiar honeyed greenness adds an almost mignonette-like quality that stops the fruit from tipping into pure confectionery. But it's the heart where Lorson reveals her talent for controlled chaos: frangipani's creamy, suntan-lotion sweetness collides with dark chocolate in a way that feels simultaneously indulgent and slightly unsettling, like biting into a praline only to discover it's been infused with tiare. The vanilla here isn't the polite, clean vanilla of safe fragrances; it's sticky and full-bodied, reinforcing the gourmand intensity whilst the chocolate accord maintains its bitter edge. As it dries down, musk and cedar provide just enough skeletal structure to prevent the whole thing from collapsing into a puddle of sweetness, though the woody base feels more like a suggestion than a declaration. This is for someone who wants to smell like pleasure itself—not refined, understated pleasure, but the unabashed kind that comes with chocolate smears and fruit stains. It's summer holiday bottled, but the sort where you're eating too much, drinking something frozen with an umbrella in it, and absolutely not apologising for any of it.
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3.5/5 (188)