Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier
377 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Rum-soaked rose petals announce themselves with zero subtlety—this is rose absolute meeting dark spirits in a way that's both boozy and baroque. The initial spray is almost overwhelming in its sweetness, but that narcissus threads through with its peculiar green-white floralcy, offering the first hint that this won't be a one-dimensional sugar rush.
Vanilla orchid unfurls at the centre, creamy and opulent, whilst the narcissus becomes more prominent, adding an almost waxy, pollen-dusted quality. The floral-gourmand marriage settles into something skin-like and intimate, with that amber accord beginning to glow underneath like warmth through fabric.
Pure vanilla-amber-tonka seduction, smoothed and rounded by sandalwood that's gone creamy and close to the skin. The powder becomes more apparent here, giving everything a soft-focus finish that's simultaneously retro and comforting, like the ghost of expensive cosmetics and warm skin after a long evening out.
Classique is Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud's love letter to unabashed femininity, rendered through the lens of gourmand orientalism. The opening collision of rose and rum creates an immediate juxtaposition—jammy Turkish rose petals macerated in dark Caribbean spirits, simultaneously proper and louche. This isn't a demure rose; it's rose as worn by someone who orders champagne at lunch and means it.
The composition's true genius lies in how Cavallier-Belletrud orchestrates the vanilla. Rather than simply dumping in vanilla extract and calling it done, he layers vanilla orchid through the heart with narcissus—that green, almost hay-like floral that keeps the sweetness from collapsing into cloying territory. The narcissus provides crucial scaffolding, its slightly indolic character adding depth and preventing the florals from reading as mere decoration atop a vanilla bomb.
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3.8/5 (873)