Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake
99 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Honeyed pear hits with deceptive gentleness—the pear juice feels almost watery, diluting rather than amplifying the honey's sweetness into something closer to diluted nectar than actual honeycomb. Within minutes, the composition already seems diminished, as though someone's turned down the volume on what should be an immediately arresting introduction.
The roses finally emerge around the 45-minute mark, and here the fragrance finds momentary focus. The lily of the valley cuts through with green, slightly metallic freshness whilst the sandalwood begins its gradual ascent, creating a brief window—perhaps an hour—where the composition feels balanced and contemplative rather than diffuse. The maritima adds an almost salty undertone that prevents pure sweetness from dominating.
By the fourth hour, the fragrance has largely retreated into a soft, barely-there skin scent dominated by sandalwood and cashmeran. These base notes are competent but forgettable, offering warmth without character. What remains is less a fragrance and more a memory of one—faint, abstract, and genuinely difficult to detect beyond arm's length.
L'Eau d'Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum occupies an interesting liminal space: it's honeyed without being gourmand, floral without being grandmotherly, and remarkably restrained for a fragrance so laden with traditionally assertive notes. The genius—or perhaps the limitation—lies in how Dominique Ropion has muted the typical amplification one might expect from rose absolute, lily of the valley, and honey in concert.
The opening assault of pear juice and honey feels almost like observing fruit through museum glass: present but filtered, more concept than sensation. This quickly yields to a rose-centric heart where the three rose iterations create an interesting textural argument—the rose water provides brightness, the oil adds body, and the absolute attempts depth, though they never quite cohere into a singular, compelling statement. Maritima (a synthetic marine note) lurks beneath like a faint mineral undertone, preventing the composition from becoming cloying.
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3.3/5 (123)