Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake
77 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Grapefruit hits with sharp, green intensity, immediately joined by cypress that feels herbaceous and slightly austere—less bright citrus, more medicinal herb garden. The cardamom enters within seconds, warming the cooler notes into something vaguely spiced and contemplative.
As the citrus fades, cedarwood emerges with dry, almost architectural presence whilst calone softens it into an aqueous, slightly soapy texture. The interplay is peculiar: the cedar wants to anchor the fragrance downward, but the synthetic calone keeps pulling it sideways into something fresher and more ethereal. For roughly ninety minutes, this becomes the scent's central tension—restraint versus spread.
Vetiver and patchouli settle into a faint woody base that never quite achieves earthiness, remaining instead as pale shadows of themselves beneath persistent cedarwood. The fragrance becomes nearly skin-scent territory, a whisper of dried wood and subtle herbs that dissipates without dramatic exit.
L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Eau & Cèdre positions itself as a subtler sibling to the original powerhouse, trading bombast for restraint. The fragrance opens with a sharp grapefruit-cypress combination that skews herbaceous rather than zesty—the citrus lacks juice, instead acting as a piercing green top note that frames the woody skeleton beneath. Cardamom adds a subtle warmth, nudging the composition toward the spiced rather than the purely fresh.
Where this composition finds its voice is in the marriage of cedarwood and calone in the heart. The cedarwood doesn't arrive as a creamy, soft texture; instead, it's dry and slightly austere, almost architectural. The calone—that synthetic marine molecule—creates an unexpected dialogue here, lending an aqueous, slightly soapy quality that prevents the cedar from becoming heavy. It's reminiscent of cedar heartwood left in sea spray, a contradiction that shouldn't work but somehow does.
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4.0/5 (595)