Une Ville. Un Parfum - 05 Shanghai

Shanghai is a fragrance that whispers rather than shouts, a powdery floral that dares to be understated in an era of aggressive sillage. Thierry Wasser has crafted something genuinely intriguing here—a composition that pivots on the aniseed-almond opening, a pairing that feels almost herbal and slightly medicinal, before the fragrance pivots unexpectedly into full-throated florality. The mimosa acts as the true backbone, lending a soft, almost talcum-powder sensuality that prevents the orange blossom and ylang ylang from becoming cloying. This is where Shanghai's cleverness reveals itself: those bright citrals and creamy florals are kept in check by an assertive woody base that arrives earlier than you'd expect, threading cedar and vetiver through the floral heart like dark thread through silk.

The overall character is sophisticated, somewhat austere—this is not a comfort fragrance so much as a conversation starter for those with refined, slightly unconventional taste. There's an almost androgynous quality to it, though it skews slightly feminine due to the mimosa's prominence. This is the scent of someone wandering through an art gallery in Shanghai's French Concession at dusk, or sitting in a minimalist café where the aesthetic matters more than the coffee. It's grown-up, cerebral, and refreshingly immune to mainstream appeal. The sandalwood and vanilla in the base prevent it from becoming austere to the point of coldness, offering a creamy anchor that catches only on very close inspection.