Mitsouko

The citrus accord arrives bright but fleeting, a brief formality before the peach note asserts itself with that characteristic fuzzy-warm lactonic quality. There's already an earthy undertone present—the oakmoss doesn't wait politely in the wings—creating an immediate tension between the fruit's roundness and the moss's bitter-green severity.

The florals emerge in soft focus, never stealing the stage but adding depth and a whisper of indolic richness from the ylang ylang. Spices prickle at the edges whilst the peach begins its slow fade into something more ambiguous and skin-like, merging with the powdery aspects. The patchouli starts its climb, bringing dark chocolate earthiness that mingles with the rose's jammy facets.

What remains is pure chypre architecture—that legendary oakmoss sitting atop vetiver's smoked wood and labdanum's resinous amber warmth. The peach has transformed entirely into a musky, almost animalic skin-scent, whilst leather and patchouli provide a suède-soft, earthy finish. It's quieter now but no less complex, intimate and tenacious against the skin, with that characteristic Guerlain powder adding a final grace note.