Guerlain
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Pink grapefruit bursts first, its bitter pith and tart juice cutting through the air before bergamot's petitgrain facets soften the blow. Lemon adds a sherbet fizz, the whole opening reading bright and almost edible, like citrus oils misting from twisted peels over a frosted glass.
The osmanthus-pear marriage reveals itself properly now, that peculiar leathery-apricot character of osmanthus giving the pear unexpected depth and a hint of something almost savoury. Orange blossom drifts through like white petals falling into the fruit, its creamy indoles prevented from going heavy by the lingering citrus brightness and a watery, just-sliced quality to the pear itself.
What remains is a soft, skin-close veil—white musk doing its translucent work, cedar providing the barest suggestion of woodiness without any pencil-shaving dryness. The moss adds a whisper of green, a memory of that osmanthus leather, and then it's gone, leaving only the faintest sweetness on the pulse points.
Pera Granita is liquid sunshine frozen mid-laugh—a masterclass in how osmanthus can transform a simple fruit-citrus composition into something altogether more compelling. Thierry Wasser builds the fragrance around that curious quality of osmanthus absolute, the way it smells simultaneously of ripe apricots, suede, and something vaguely floral yet never quite nameable. Here, it collides with juicy pear in the heart, creating an effect rather like biting into a perfectly chilled Asian pear whilst standing in an orchard at dawn, petals still damp with dew.
The citrus trio up top—pink grapefruit's bittersweet flesh, bergamot's aromatic oils, sharp lemon—reads less like a traditional cologne splash and more like the zest scattered across the rim of a granita glass. There's a crystalline quality to the opening, all those volatile top notes creating a shimmering halo before the floral-fruit heart takes over. The orange blossom adds its indolic sweetness without tipping into heaviness, whilst the pear never goes candied or synthetic. It's a wet pear, skin-on, with that slight graininess you find in the real fruit.
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Mexx
3.3/5 (212)