Giardini di Toscana
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Caramel arrives with an almost savoury intensity, its burnt-sugar edges immediately complicated by an undefined spice that keeps the sweetness from becoming cloying. There's a fleeting alcoholic brightness—raw and slightly harsh—before the composition settles into its creamy groove, already hinting at the honey-coumarin partnership waiting in the wings.
Coumarin takes centre stage, its tobacco-hay facets creating an unexpectedly dry framework for the honey, which reads more resinous than liquid-sweet. The interplay between these two creates a warm, almost skin-like quality that the spice accord gently agitates, preventing the scent from becoming too soporific or linear.
White musk and vanilla meld into a soft, pillowy base that never quite loses that whisper of caramelised bitterness from the opening. What remains is powdery without being cosmetic, sweet without being saccharine—a second-skin scent that smells like comfort itself, if comfort had been lightly singed around the edges.
Bianco Latte is Silvia Martinelli's meditation on the precise moment caramel begins to burn—that threshold where sweetness acquires a smoky, almost bitter edge before surrendering to comfort. The opening caramel isn't the tooth-aching Disney version; it's been tempered with something savoury, a whisper of salt or burnt sugar that prevents the composition from collapsing into confectionery. As coumarin emerges, it brings its characteristic hay-like warmth, creating an unexpected dialogue with honey that reads more as beeswax and pollen than golden syrup. This is the gourmand structure rebuilt with restraint.
The spice accord—never identified but unmistakably present—weaves through the sweetness like smoke through cream, preventing the vanilla and white musk base from becoming another bland cloud of 'clean skin'. Instead, Martinelli has crafted something that feels worn-in, lived-with, reminiscent of cashmere jumpers stored with vanilla pods and the particular warmth of sun-heated stone in a Tuscan courtyard. The powdery quality emerges not from iris or violet, but from the way coumarin and musk conspire to create that soft-focus effect on skin.
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3.8/5 (128)