Etro
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bergamot and star anise burst forth with immediate brightness, the citrus providing lemony sparkle whilst the anise asserts itself with a liquorice-tinged sweetness that feels almost confectionery. Rosewood softens the impact with creamy, warm woodiness, preventing the opening from becoming aggressively spiced—instead it's bracing and slightly herbal, like breathing in from a tin of expensive tea.
The fennel and caraway emerge with botanical authority, creating a distinctly savoury-spiced character that deepens considerably from the opening's brightness. Jasmine adds a peppery, green-tinged floral presence whilst iris contributes powdery restraint, transforming the composition into something more herbal and contemplative, with the spice now grounded rather than floating freely.
The anise character mellows into the amber and musk base, which envelops the skin with soft warmth and a subtle skin-like quality that feels intimate rather than projective. Vanilla arrives gently, rounding the sharper edges into a creamy, slightly gourmand sweetness that lingers quietly—not diffuse, but present when you lean in close.
Etro's Anice is a fragrance that wears its botanical conviction unapologetically—a spiced licorice reverie that refuses to soften into mainstream appeal. Jacques Flori has constructed something genuinely peculiar here: a composition where star anise and fennel become the protagonists rather than supporting players, their sweet-spicy aniseed character dominating the olfactory landscape with an almost medicinal clarity. This isn't the anise of pastis or sambuca, dissolved into sophistication; it's the raw, assertive bite of the seed itself, bolstered by caraway's earthy, slightly peppery companionship.
What makes Anice distinctive is how Flori threads rosewood through the opening to provide a creamy, slightly woody counterbalance—preventing the composition from becoming a one-dimensional spice rack. The jasmine in the heart arrives not as a floral softener but as a peppery, green-tinged presence that plays off the fennel's own herbaceous notes rather than contradicting them. The iris contributes a powdery restraint, acting as a subtle moderating force against the fragrance's inherent assertiveness.
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3.8/5 (156)