Dsquared²
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bergamot and grapefruit zest explode with bright, almost peppery intensity, the kind of citrus that feels slightly tart on your mental palate. Within three minutes, the hemlock and stone pine needle notes begin their emergence, adding a cool, slightly camphorous undertone that complicates the simplicity of the fruit.
The woody-aquatic character fully emerges now, and the fragrance transforms into something altogether more sophisticated—a fresh, ozonic composition where pine resin and cedar create a subtle, mineral landscape. The tonka bean's presence is just barely perceptible, a whisper of warmth threading through the cool woods without compromising the overall freshness.
What remains is predominantly a skin-like musk base with ghostly traces of white cedar and faint cistus undertones, the citrus entirely departed. This final phase leans soft and intimate, almost indolic, though the aquatic accord lingers faintly, preventing any true density or heaviness.
Potion Blue Cadet is a fragrance caught between two compelling impulses: the sharp bite of citrus exuberance and the grounding whisper of coniferous forests. Mathilde Bijaoui has crafted something that feels less like a traditional masculine scent and more like a crystalline afternoon—crisp, clean, and possessed of an almost architectural clarity.
The opening salvo of mandarin and bergamot zest establishes immediate freshness, but this isn't the cloying sweetness of department store citrus. There's an almost astringent quality here, a zestiness that skews towards the pith rather than the flesh. But within moments, the heart reveals its true character: a sophisticated woodland accord built on the interplay of balsam fir, Canadian hemlock needle, and Siberian stone pine needle. These aren't decorative notes—they're the fragrance's backbone, creating a cool, resinous envelope that transforms the opening's brightness into something more contemplative.
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3.5/5 (355)