Diptyque
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Blood orange screams first, nearly piercing in its intensity, accompanied by grapefruit's sharp resin. Within moments, the citric brightness fractures as saffron creeps in—suddenly you're not smelling fruit, but rather spiced fruit, something almost savoury and slightly dusty.
Cinnamon and ginger emerge with deliberate warmth, transforming the composition into something almost oriental in feel, whilst rose and orange blossom add ethereal complexity without sweetening. The turmeric becomes more pronounced here, lending an unexpected earthy, almost bitter quality that prevents the fragrance from becoming too pretty or accessible.
Cedar and frankincense establish themselves with quiet authority, their resinous quality mixing with musk to create a subtle skin scent. What remains is a whisper of spiced citrus and warm wood—intimate, slightly mysterious, and considerably more refined than the vigorous opening promised.
L'Eau de Tarocco is a fragrance that refuses neat categorisation, oscillating between the brightness of a Sicilian marketplace and the smouldering intrigue of a spice merchant's back room. Blood orange and grapefruit collide in the opening with an almost aggressive vitality, yet Olivier Pescheux tempers this citric exuberance by weaving saffron and turmeric through the heart—transforming what could have been a simple fruity-fresh composition into something altogether more complex and slightly unsettling.
The genius lies in how the spice accord prevents this from becoming another cheerful breakfast juice fragrance. Cinnamon and ginger add warmth without sweetness, whilst rose and orange blossom provide a floral anchor that stops the composition from tipping into gourmand territory. Instead, there's a peppery, almost medicinal quality that lingers beneath the fruity surface—as if someone's infused a blood orange with cardamom and clove.
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3.7/5 (164)