Chanel
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Blood orange explodes immediately with almost aggressive tartness, the grapefruit arriving milliseconds behind to add bitter pink-fleshed sweetness. Within seconds, you're confronted with an insistently fresh, nearly juicy blast—all pulp and natural acidity, though already the jasmine lurks underneath like someone tapping your shoulder to remind you this is still a Chanel.
By the second hour, jasmine has pushed forward considerably, softening the citrus's initial sting and introducing a subtle floral femininity that somewhat undermines the fresh opening's unisex promise. The cedar emerges here too, bringing dusty, slightly woody restraint that prevents the composition from becoming perfume-counter predictable.
What remains is a faint, increasingly abstract iris-cedar combination—barely detectable on skin, more imagined than smelled. The fragrance becomes increasingly a memory of its opening rather than a living scent, fading to skin-scent territory by the fourth hour with virtually no projection whatsoever.
Chance Eau Vive is Olivier Polge's attempt at capturing restless optimism in a bottle—and whilst it doesn't entirely succeed, the fragrance's opening moments hint at something genuinely appealing. The blood orange and grapefruit duet arrives with genuine vibrancy, neither fruit dominating the other; instead, they create a bright, slightly bitter citrus accord that feels more Mediterranean breakfast table than synthetic fragrance aisle. What makes this composition interesting is the immediate tension between that snappy citrus top and the creeping jasmine beneath it—there's a push-pull dynamic as the floral note struggles to soften the fruit's acidic edges, creating momentary complexity that suggests Polge was working with more interesting intentions than Chanel's marketing materials let on.
The cedar and iris base attempt to anchor proceedings with woody dryness, adding a whisper of structure to what might otherwise be pure fruit-and-flower frivolity. That iris particularly carries a slight mineral, almost cosmetic quality—it prevents the composition from becoming cloying, maintaining a certain astringent clarity throughout. This is fundamentally a fragrance for someone who finds traditional florals too plush, who wants brightness without aggression, and who doesn't mind their scent dissipating by lunch. It appeals to those searching for an everyday citrus that doesn't rely on synthetic marine notes or aggressive bergamot—instead offering something more textured, if ultimately rather ephemeral. Wear this when you need an emotional lift rather than olfactory longevity.
Add fragrances to your collection and unlock your personalised scent DNA, note map, and shareable identity card.
3.5/5 (93)