Cartier
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Juniper berry sparks with peppery snap, crisp and almost gin-like, with a green bite that makes you sit straighter. Within minutes, however, this vivacity contracts; the pepper softens and the juniper's resinous edge dulls into a watery freshness that feels increasingly insubstantial.
Cyclamen's soapy, slightly metallic coolness rises to claim centre stage, joined by the pale sweetness of lily of the valley and honeysuckle's indistinct honeyed whisper. The florals align in a creamy-powdery column, all rendered in pastel tones—almost monochromatic in their restraint. Rose ghosts through almost undetectably.
The woody base finally emerges as a soft, muted framework, neither warm nor particularly aromatic, whilst musk adds a vague skin-like quality. By this stage, de Lune has become nearly invisible—a suggestion of powder on linen, barely registering beyond intimate distance.
Mathilde Laurent has crafted something genuinely peculiar in de Lune—a fragrance that walks the line between crystalline freshness and powdery restraint without fully committing to either. The juniper berry and pink pepper opening suggests a green, almost herbal freshness, yet this quickly retreats in favour of a distinctly cool floral core where cyclamen's soapy, slightly bitter character dominates the softer honeysuckle and lily of the valley. Rose appears almost as an afterthought, lending structure rather than romance.
The fragrance's defining characteristic is its restraint. There's a deliberate whisper to de Lune—it reads almost transparent on the skin, with the woody and musky base providing mere suggestion rather than anchor. The powdery accords (52%) lend an almost cosmetic quality; you catch moments of talcum-soft floral flesh, particularly as the cyclamen blooms, but it never quite becomes creamy or enveloping. Instead, it remains ethereal, clinical even—as though smelling flowers through frosted glass.
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3.5/5 (144)