Carthusia
Carthusia
104 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The corn mint and eucalyptus combination hits with immediate cool intensity—almost throat-catching in its clarity—whilst litsea cubeba adds a green-citrus peppery edge that makes you think of crushed herbs rather than fresh fruit. Within ninety seconds, lemon and orange appear as supporting players, their brightness filtered through the mineral-green accord that already dominates.
Star anise's subtle licorice warmth emerges around the twenty-minute mark, softening the mint's severity. Fig and jasmine materialise as a creamy floral thread running through the composition, whilst lemongrass and apple blossom maintain the fragrance's green, slightly sharp character. This phase—roughly ninety minutes to two hours—represents the fragrance at its most harmonious, when every note element is present and conversant.
By the fourth hour, the heart notes have largely evaporated, leaving only tobacco flower's warm, slightly leathery quality and seagrass's subtle ozonic-salty character sketching a faint outline on skin. The fragrance becomes a whisper, an olfactory memory rather than a present scent—evocative of sea air and dried herbs rather than anything recognisably perfumed. Within five to six hours, it fades almost entirely, leaving only a vague herbaceous warmth and perhaps the faintest salt note.
Io Capri Carthusia reads as a Mediterranean herb garden caught mid-morning, when the sun has burned off the dew but hasn't yet scorched the greenery into submission. Laura Bosetti Tonatto constructs this as a study in restraint—a fragrance that whispers rather than announces, which explains its polarising reception amongst those seeking projection and permanence.
The composition pivots on a brilliantly executed dialogue between corn mint's cool menthol snap and litsea cubeba's almost metallic citrus brightness, creating an aromatic freshness that feels closer to botanical than perfumery. This isn't candy-bright citrus; it's the stern green-yellow quality of actual citrus leaf and stalk. The lemon and orange merely accent this herbal core rather than dominate it, whilst star anise introduces a whispered spice—aniseedy and delicately liquorice-touched—that prevents the fragrance from becoming purely refreshing.
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3.6/5 (85)