Bvlgari
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The Calabrian bergamot arrives with almost aggressive brightness, immediately clawed back by cactus peel's green, slightly dusty bite—like pressing your face against a sun-warmed succulent. The pink grapefruit enters as a mediator between these poles, but only momentarily, before the citrus trio settles into something discordant and vaguely unsettling, all bright acidity and no warmth.
Guatemala cardamom emerges with unexpected spice, neither warm nor welcoming, cutting through the freesia's soft, soapy florals like a blade through silk. The amber begins its slow ascent, finally introducing genuine texture and body to what had felt somewhat thin and scattered, whilst the vetiver hints at the woody undercurrent gaining prominence.
The composition contracts into its woody skeleton—haitian vetiver dominates, supported by benzoin Siam's subtle sweetness and balsa wood's pale, almost colourless timber notes. What remains is surprisingly lean and somewhat ghostly, lacking the projective power to sustain interest; the fragrance seems to evaporate into skin scent territory with a suddenness that feels almost premature, leaving behind only faint woody whispers and the faintest echo of cardamom spice.
Bvlgari Man Extreme arrives as a study in restless energy—a fragrance that refuses to sit still. Alberto Morillas has constructed something genuinely conflicted here: the opening salvo of Calabrian bergamot and pink grapefruit suggests Mediterranean leisure, yet the cactus peel immediately introduces a prickly, almost threatening undertone that transforms the citrus from refreshing into slightly unhinged. This is not the languid bergamot of Acqua di Parma; this feels more like squeezing citrus fruit with your bare hands, the oils hitting your skin with a sharp, borderline uncomfortable intensity.
The Guatemala cardamom in the heart pushes the composition into unexpectedly spicy territory—not warm spice, but something greener and more herbaceous that plays against the freesia's delicate floral whisper. There's genuine tension here: the cardamom wants drama whilst the freesia pleads for subtlety. The amber arrives as a mediator, smoothing some edges but never quite settling the argument.
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