Burberry
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Jasmine erupts with unexpected sweetness, its honeyed indole notes immediately kissed by candied rose and peach that feel more syrup than fruit. The initial impression is arrestingly floral-gourmand, almost perfume-y in its intensity—a heady burst that catches you slightly off-guard.
By ninety minutes, the composition settles into its true character: the peach nectar becomes more naturalistic, playing beautifully against the rose's sugared edges, while patchouli emerges with subtle earthiness and a whisper of spice that prevents cloying sweetness. This is where the fragrance finds its balance, revealing the intelligence in its architecture.
The base becomes increasingly minimalist, reduced to soft amber and patchouli with apenas a ghost of the floral sweetness remaining. It dries down to a skin scent so intimate you'll question whether it's still there at all—though those close enough will catch that warm, slightly spiced amber-rose drydown clinging softly to your clothes.
My Burberry Black Parfum is a whispered invitation rather than a declaration—a fragrance that demands you lean in close to truly understand its intentions. Francis Kurkdjian has crafted something deceptively simple that rewards attention: jasmine opens with a honeyed, almost indolic richness, but it's immediately tempered by something unexpectedly confectionery. The candied rose and peach nectar don't arrive as distinct fruits; instead, they merge into a syrupy floral sweetness that feels almost gourmand, as though someone's dusted fresh roses with demerara sugar and nestled them beside ripe stone fruit.
What makes this fragrance compelling is how it resists prettiness. The patchouli and amber in the base prevent this from becoming a mere dessert; there's an earthy, slightly spiced quality that grounds the opening's saccharine tendencies. It's the olfactory equivalent of black velvet—luxurious yet austere, warm yet somehow austere. This is for the person who enjoys florals but finds most modern floral fragrances cloying; who appreciates gourmand notes but doesn't want to smell like a pastry counter. The spiced undertones (a solid 52% accord presence) suggest dried fruits, cardamom, something vaguely tobacco-like that prevents the composition from ever feeling naive.
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3.3/5 (123)