bdk Parfums
bdk Parfums
195 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The pink pepper detonates first, sharp and almost metallic, cutting through a green geranium bite that momentarily masks what's to come. Within seconds, the tuberose pushes through like a breaching whale, creamy and indolic, already hinting at the floral density ahead.
The fragrance becomes gorgeously thick here, as the multiple jasmine components and ylang-ylang layer into a seamless, almost narcotic tuberose cloud. The iris emerges as a powdery haze, whilst vanilla begins its slow creep upward, adding warmth and a subtle sugared tonality to the floral heart.
The base resins—frankincense, benzoin, and sandalwood—finally predominate, giving the tuberose a resinous, almost woody bed. The fragrance becomes more perfumery than floral, with patchouli and cypress adding earthy depth, though the overall composition loses projection significantly, clinging closer to the skin as a warm, intimate vanilla-iris-resin whisper.
Tubéreuse Impériale announces itself as a floral study in imperial excess—tuberose reigns here, not as a supporting player but as the absolute sovereign. Cécile Matton has crafted a composition where the Indian tuberose's creamy, almost fleshy character intertwines with the honeyed density of Comorian ylang-ylang, creating a sweetness that feels almost edible rather than perfumery-conventional. The Egyptian geranium and pink pepper opening provides crucial structure, offering a peppery, slightly green counterpoint that prevents the fragrance from collapsing into pure confectionery.
What emerges is a fragrance for those who understand tuberose not as a timid, delicate flower but as a voluptuous, demanding presence. The heart layers multiple jasmine varieties—Egyptian jasmine contributing its tea-like astringency alongside the creamier Jasmine Sambac—whilst iris adds a powdery, almost dusty quality that tempers the floral sweetness. The base is where restraint dissolves entirely: bourbon vanilla, Sumatra benzoin, and somalian frankincense create a warm, resinous foundation that's distinctly orientalist in character, anchored by the earthy, smoky whisper of Singapore patchouli and cypress.
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3.6/5 (116)