Annette Neuffer
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The green bitter edge of the citrus trio explodes immediately—sharp, almost bergamot-adjacent, with a peppery snap that makes your skin tingle. It's bright and crisp, almost tart, with the nutmeg adding a subtle warmth that prevents the opening from feeling austere or one-dimensional.
The roses gradually emerge, layering beneath the receding citrus, and here's where the composition reveals its sophistication—the carnation and osmanthus create a faintly spiced, vaguely grape-like floral bed that feels almost Chypre-adjacent in its structural integrity. The orange blossom materialises as a waxy, powdered presence, binding the florals to the citrus rather than replacing it.
The beeswax absolute and sandalwood create a subtly honeyed, woody skin-scent that bears only the faintest whisper of the opening's brightness. It becomes intimate and nearly imperceptible, evolving into something between beeswax candles and sun-warmed cedar—present only when you lean in to smell your own wrist.
Elixir Solaire operates as a masterclass in citrus-floral restraint, eschewing the typical gourmand heaviness that so often plagues unisex fragrances. Annette Neuffer has constructed something altogether more architectural here: the green bitter orange and wild orange notes establish an almost tea-like bitterness that prevents the composition from veering into candy-shop territory, whilst the murcott tangerine adds a fleeting juiciness that dissipates rather than lingers. The pink pepper and nutmeg create a subtle prickling sensation—not aggressive, but insistent enough to disrupt any notion of pure sweetness.
What makes this fragrance genuinely compelling is how the rose accord (three distinct varieties working in concert) never dominates despite comprising the heart. Instead, these roses act as a honeyed cushion, allowing the carnation to inject a subtle clove-like spiciness and the osmanthus to contribute something almost grape-like and slightly fermented. The Tunisian orange blossom plays a clever bridging role, its waxy, powdered character tethering the citrus notes to the floral body without allowing either camp to overwhelm.
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3.6/5 (243)