Amouage
Amouage
256 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Wild berries burst tart and unripe against a wall of green so aggressive it's almost grassy, cut with that peculiar metallic bite that fresh ferns leave on your fingers. There's an immediate smokiness threading through, not yet fully leather, more like standing near a wood fire in outdoor clothing that's begun to absorb the scent.
Chamomile reveals itself with its apple-like sweetness, but the narcissus keeps things heady and slightly indolic, whilst the smoked leather finally declares itself properly—soft suede passed repeatedly through bonfire smoke. The lily adds a waxy, clean dimension that sits oddly but effectively against the earthiness, like expensive soap used in a potting shed.
The base settles into a triumvirate of birch, vetiver, and patchouli that smells of damp forest floor, tree bark, and that specific mustiness of turned earth. It's quiet but persistent, woody-green rather than woody-warm, with the faintest ghost of smoke still clinging to the edges like memory.
Bracken Woman is Amouage's love letter to the British countryside after rain—specifically that moment when crushed ferns release their green blood and wood smoke drifts through damp undergrowth. This is a scent that wears its greenness as armour, opening with wild berries that aren't sweet so much as sharp and botanical, their juice astringent against your teeth. The chamomile and narcissus at its heart should soften this verdant assault, but instead they conspire with smoked leather to create something peculiar and compelling: floral notes filtered through campfire smoke, like pressing your nose to a bouquet whilst standing downwind of a bonfire.
What makes Bracken Woman fascinating is how it refuses to choose between masculine and feminine codes. The leather is present but diffuse, more suggestion than statement, whilst the lily adds a soapy clarity that keeps the composition from toppling into darkness. Birch and vetiver form the backbone—earthy, slightly medicinal, reminiscent of wet bark and root vegetables pulled from soil. The patchouli, mercifully, is scrubbed clean rather than headshop murky.
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3.6/5 (116)