Acorelle
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Blackcurrant and pink grapefruit explode with tart, juicy immediacy, cut through with the green-soapy brightness of neroli and the honeyed pear note that immediately suggests something fermented lurking beneath. The Florentine iris adds powdery violet whispers whilst staleBread (presumably a gourmand nod to yeasty depth) hints that sweetness here will never feel innocent.
The florals bloom into something distinctly funky—magnolia and jasmine sambac growing creamy and slightly rank, as that decay note becomes increasingly prominent, lending the composition an almost botanical rot quality. The damask rose struggles against this tide of imperfection, adding dusty powder and tannic depth rather than typical romantic florality.
Raspberry absolute, amber, and sandalwood emerge to anchor the composition, though they're competing with the musk for prominence; ambrette seed absolute adds a leather-like, slightly animalic warmth, whilst vanilla co2 provides honeyed weight rather than true gourmand sweetness. The fragrance settles into a powdery, mildly sweet base with persistent earthiness.
Baies Sauvages arrives as a deceptively delicate proposition—all bright citrus and stone fruit—before revealing a curious, almost unsettling interior. Cristian Calabrò has constructed something genuinely peculiar here: a fragrance that treats decay not as a flaw to mask, but as a textural element. The blackcurrant opens with sharp, almost tart energy alongside pink grapefruit's bitter brightness, whilst the neroli provides that characteristic soapy-green freshness. But then comes the pear—honeyed, slightly fermented—and those top notes begin their descent into something distinctly less comfortable.
The heart pivots toward lush florals, yet they arrive tainted by that note listed simply as "decay." Magnolia and Jasmine Sambac would typically read as creamy and intoxicating, but here they're rendered slightly vegetative, almost alcoholic—as though you're smelling flowers just past their peak bloom, when the pollen has grown heavy and something faintly funky creeps beneath the beauty. The damask rose tries to anchor things with classical elegance, but the composition resists comfort.
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3.4/5 (176)